Allergens in cosmetics are a major concern for many consumers. While these substances can cause allergic reactions in some sensitive individuals, they do not necessarily represent a danger for the general population. Allergens are mainly found in fragrances , a central element of many beauty products. But how big is the risk associated with these allergens? And why do cosmetic analysis apps like Yuka talk about them so frequently? This article offers you a complete update on this topic in 2024, with precise information on regulations and practical advice for choosing your cosmetics safely.

Perfumes and Allergens: Natural or Intentional Addition?

Contrary to what one might think, allergens present in perfumes are not intentionally added by cosmetic manufacturers. They are in fact molecules naturally present in the fragrance ingredients, whether they are of natural origin (such as essential oils ) or synthetic . These allergens can cause skin reactions in people who are sensitive to them, but for the vast majority of users, they do not pose a problem.

Due to their allergenic potential, some of these substances are strictly regulated to minimize the risk of allergic contact reactions. Dosage limitations and labeling requirements allow consumers to easily identify products that may contain these allergens.

How Many Allergens Are Present in Perfumes?

In 2012, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) identified 82 fragrance substances with allergenic potential in humans. However, among these substances, only 26 allergens are regulated by the Cosmetics Regulation in Europe. These allergens can be of natural or synthetic origin. They are found in many care or beauty products and do not have the same allergenic power whether they are natural or synthetic. There are notable differences between natural allergens from essential oils and those from synthetic chemical substances .

Here are some examples of common allergens:

• Linalool (natural or synthetic)
• Citronellol (natural or synthetic)
• Limonene (natural or synthetic)
• Geraniol (natural or synthetic)
• Benzyl salicylate (natural or synthetic)

These substances are present in both natural products and synthetic perfumes and are responsible for the majority of reported allergic reactions .

Regulation and Labeling of Products Containing Allergens

To protect consumers, the European Cosmetics Regulation imposes strict rules on the labelling and dosage of allergens in cosmetic products. The maximum amounts of allergens allowed vary depending on the type of product. For example, a rinse-off product such as a shampoo or shower gel can contain up to 10 times more allergens than a product intended to remain on the skin, such as a lifting cream or perfume .

Manufacturers are also required to mention the presence of these allergens in the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list if their concentration exceeds:

• 0.001% in leave-in products (perfumes, creams, oils).
• 0.01% in rinse-off products (shampoos, shower gels).

For example, the formula of the EFFECT hydrate contains 0.001% citronellol and 0.001% geraniol which are contained in certified organic essential oils. We decided to mention these allergens with less reaction given their very low concentration and reaction on the skin on the label for more transparency.

However, these requirements allow people with allergies to quickly identify products that are likely to trigger a reaction. It is therefore important to note that even if these allergens do not exceed the defined thresholds, they may be present in small quantities without being mentioned on the label, which can still cause reactions in very sensitive individuals.

The Real Risks of Allergens in Cosmetics

The risks associated with allergens contained in cosmetics are mainly related to skin reactions such as redness , itching , or irritation . However, these risks mainly concern people with sensitive skin or a specific allergic background. For the majority of users, these substances do not present any major danger .

Unlike ingredients known to be carcinogenic or toxic, allergens are not harmful to the entire population. They are mentioned in the INCI lists for information purposes, to facilitate their identification by people with allergies. In reality, according to the SCCS estimates, only 3% of the European population has developed an allergy to perfume ingredients , which remains a relatively low proportion.

What do apps like Yuka and QuelCosmetic say?

Cosmetic analysis apps , such as Yuka , QuelCosmetic and others, have contributed to increasing distrust of certain ingredients, including allergens . However, it is essential to understand that these apps classify allergens without taking into account the actual concentration or individual tolerance of users.

For example, an organic essential oil might be rated poorly simply because it contains natural allergens, without taking into account the small amount used in the final formula. This sometimes gives a distorted image of the product, considering a minor allergy risk as a serious hazard.

These apps do not always correctly distinguish between allergens , which may be harmless to the majority of people, and ingredients that are actually harmful to health.

How to Choose Your Cosmetics Safely?

If you are sensitive to allergens or have reactive skin , here are some tips to avoid adverse reactions:

• Read the INCI list carefully : Check for the presence of allergens in your cosmetic products, especially those that exceed the regulatory thresholds.
• Do a skin test : Before using a new product, apply a small amount to an inconspicuous area of ​​skin to observe any reactions.
• Choose fragrance-free cosmetics : If your skin is very sensitive, choose fragrance-free products, which contain fewer potentially allergenic substances.

In Conclusion: Allergens, Should We Be Wary of Them?

Allergens in cosmetics play a similar role to nuts in food: they are listed to warn people who are sensitive to them, but do not pose a real danger to the majority of consumers. While some cosmetic analysis applications sometimes exaggerate the risks, it is essential to distinguish between a minor allergy risk and a significant danger .

By taking simple precautions , such as checking labels or choosing products that are right for your skin type, you can enjoy your cosmetics with peace of mind.